Should i upgrade from 50d to 7d
Thank you so much for your response. Every sensor is different, including its "high-ISO noise" characteristics. One would think a later-generation sensor would perform better? Not always the case. The 7D's sensor is no better than the 50's in terms of noise, and the 70D's processor does not do a better job managing the noise. With the 7D, I avoid high-contrast scenes with dark shadows altogether -- the shadow noise is so ugly.
Fast-action, well-lit sun in my back scenes? Except for the 7D's more "pro-oriented" capabilities, there is nothing "terrible" about the 50D, which I still use occasionally. It was visible at all ISO values but - reading other replies - it may be due to copy variation. That said, when I bought the 7D I have tested six of them in and outside the shop for hours before buying one.
Stupidly, before that I bought the 50D they gave to me. Then the 77D is probably going to please you much more than the 7D.
The 7D is far uglier in base ISO shadows, pushed beyond a stop or two. IIRC, the 7D has vertical banding in base-ISO shadows which tends to have mostly a luminance component, and the 50D had strong horizontal banding that took on more of a chromatic banding effect.
Based on your stated criteria, I would not consider the 70D. It has old-school, high base-ISO read noise. We should be discussing the pros and cons of these two cameras, or maybe even the Rebels with the same 24MP sensor. I don't know why the OP keeps allowing himself to be steered towards antique DR capabilities. Absolutely, at low ISOs. Is it worth the hefty price tag?
We take a look at the Cine, the high-end model in this series. The Nikon Z9 is the company's first camera to feature a stacked CMOS sensor, which brings a raft of new features, including blazing speed and autofocus performance to the Z lineup.
Click through for our detailed first impressions of Nikon's latest professional ILC. The Sony a7 IV is the fourth generation of the company's core a7 full-frame mirrorless camera model, and it's the most advanced yet.
Click through for an in-depth look at Sony's latest full-frame mirrorless ILC. Nik Silver Efex Pro 3, one of the standout components of Nik Collection 4, is a black-and-white conversion tool that goes far further than the grayscale or black-and-white tools built into all-in-one photo apps.
For some users, this app alone might be worth the cost of the whole collection — find out for yourself in our review. The Nikon Z mm F2. Get all the details in our full review. These capable cameras should be solid and well-built, have both speed and focus for capturing fast action and offer professional-level image quality. Although a lot of people only upload images to Instagram from their smartphones, the app is much more than just a mobile photography platform.
In this guide we've chosen a selection of cameras that make it easy to shoot compelling lifestyle images, ideal for sharing on social media. If you're looking for the perfect drone for yourself, or to gift someone special, we've gone through all of the options and selected our favorites.
We looked at cameras with selfie-friendly screens, wide-angle lenses, microphone inputs and great video quality, and selected the best. Submit a News Tip! Reading mode: Light Dark.
I am quite new to all this hence my anal questions Sorry, I didn't mean to come across that harshly but I'm still a bit astonished at how many people worry about noise too much My philosophy is, if the final picture looks good, who cares? Because no one, I mean no one is going to be looking at your photos with a magnifying glass Well, except for maybe the other people who are overly anal about things like noise.
At the resolution you have posted, it is really hard to tell if there is much noise. I don't see much. What I suggest is open the original unedited image and check the histogram. If the top of the density curve is not near the top of the graph, you are getting more noise than you need to, regardless of how much there is.
No camera is going to substitute for correct exposure. If you look at reviews of cameras, you will see that they differ in noise primarily at higher ISOs. As several of us have pointed out, the 50D is fine at and , so if you have having a problem, you need to work on technique. Also, if you have an image with lots of range so that some areas are dimly lit and hence noisier, you can easily do a little noise reduction.
LR3 has good noise reduction, and I use it fairly often, although almost always with images shot at higher ISOs. I have Noise Ninja for the bad ones, but with my 50D, I almost never need to use it. Point taken Dean just funning with you good ol' british humour, just shown my husband who I'm trying to convince i need an upgrade Perhaps i do try to crop in a little too much.
Hey ho Is this shot cropped from a larger photo? When I put it into a viewer, it doesn't seem very sharp, and I'm wondering if you are cropping way down to get just a piece of the photo. It's not so much noise, as it just isn't in focus as far as I can tell. The exif data is saying that it's shot at f4.
But I love it all the same. According to the peepers an "impossible shot". So it depends on what you want for end result. Have fun, Matthijs. Karen, I went snooping in your portfolio to try to find some examples of noise. As for this image, I honestly don't think it's a noise problem. It seems to me that it's not as sharp as it could be, which gives the appearance of noise. I only have the 40D, and I find that particularly in low light situations, I have difficulty finding the focus.
Don't know if that's an issue with the later cameras or not. But if you cropped way in on this, for instance, it could have muddied the image a bit. They also give the image sensor a better probability in identifying the right area of the scene to focus on in more automatic modes.
The number of megapixels determines the resolution of the images captured with the main camera. A higher megapixel count means that the camera is capable of capturing more details.
However, the megapixel count is not the only important element determining the quality of an image. With a higher light sensitivity ISO level , the sensor absorbs more light. This can be used to capture moving objects using a fast shutter speed, or to take images in low light without using a flash. Fast continuous shooting is useful for catching action shots. With AF tracking, once you choose the subject and press the shutter release part way down, as the subject moves, the autofocus will follow it.
No more out of focus shots. Phase-detection autofocus is much faster than a contrast detection autofocus, allowing for sharper images. A faster maximum shutter speed allows taking pictures of fast moving subjects without blur. A two-stage shutter can help you take photos like a pro: just slightly press the button for the lens to focus, and then push it fully to capture the photograph. Videography 1. A phase-detection autofocus system is faster than a contrast detection autofocus system.
Even when recording scenes with a lot of fast movements, the videos are sharp and clear. When recording movies they stay focussed and sharp. Nowadays, it is used to create film-like motion characteristics. I purchased a hide from which I photographed the Red Kite this was comparatively cheap and got me really close, so this I agree about closeness.
So compared with the cost of a 7D you can see why I would consider it. I understand that this void in cost between the mm f f. I have purchased a 1. I think the mixed responses do actually help.
I need to understand and fully utilise the 50D all this knowledge is transferable to a 7D should I choose it. But it is not a simple yes or no. I am happy to have more input. AF is the main improvement for wildlife. Here it is superb.
Following birds in flight is much easier once you get used to all the options. I think the 7D is a great buy. I regret changing from the 50D and like you I do love my wildlife, I just feel if Canon have over done the pixel count with the 7. Regards loskeran. Thincat 14 Like Cameracat says, the 7D will give you a faster and more accurate focusing system - this is something that keeps on getting better with every new camera release except on the 5DMkII allegedly.
Accurate focus is obviously really important with long lenses. The other thing that keeps getting better is sensor sensitivity. Sadly a lot of the manufacturers are using this improvement to allow them to put more pixels on the sensor - bad idea!
So it's one step forward and half a step back.
0コメント